![]() ![]() ![]() The smaller your bust, the less ease you'd need proportionally than larger bust, i.e. If you want your sweater to look similar to the one in the mag, you're going to need to choose a size somewhere 6-10 inches larger than your bust measurement. Clearly you don't need 8 extra inches of fabric around your bust to move, so this is largely design ease. I recommend about 8" of ease for the Cormac sweater. Nowadays, we sport a much more relaxed look, and to create it you need to add design ease on top of the wearing ease. ![]() In the 1940's, like the photo about, the snug "sweater girl" look was the thing, and they used zero or negative design ease to achieve it. Fashion goes back on forth a lot on what silhouette is in. If wearing ease is about how you move, design ease is about how you look. Because we all like to lift our arms right?Īlso, in general, I think that unless you're reinforcing your buttonbands, you want cardigans to have some positive ease so you don't have button-band gappage. So that super snug, ribbed Lana Turner-esque sweater? The fabric has a lot of give, so you can still breathe, hooray!īut just because you don't necessary need wearing ease in the bust, doesn't mean that you wouldn't want in other places, like the sleeve and armhole. Fortunately knitted fabric has a bit more give, it stretches as you move, so you can get away with little, no, or even negative ease, depending on the flexibility of your knitted fabric. Now a piece of paper is stiff and inflexible, woven fabrics can be fairly rigid too, which is why wearing ease is more important in woven garments. We move a lot and moving requires ease, or a little bit of extra space to allow for that movement. Now try taking a deep chest breath, or bending over to pick something up, or reaching forward. Think of cutting out a piece of sturdy paper to your exact bust measurement and taping it on. Wearing ease contributes to ease of movement. A 38" sweater on a 38" bust would have no or zero ease. A 37" sweater on that same 38" bust would have 1" of negative ease. For example, a 40" sweater on a 38" bust has two inches of positive ease. Positive ease means that the garment measurements are larger than your actual measurements. These measurements are the basic starting point for a good fit, but then as a designer, I add extra fabric to those measurements for ease of movement and style. When I design a garment, I think about two things related to fit (well more than that obviously, but stick with me here) - wearing ease and design ease. That's certainly an option, but it probably won't get you the best fit. When I first started knitting, I thought you just picked the size closest to your bust measurement and went from there. These two bits of information are going to be very helpful in choosing a size. If it also includes something like intended to be worn with 8-10" positive ease, even better! If your pattern includes this, fantastic! In a lot of knitting patterns for garments you'll find something that looks like this: ![]()
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